A tortoise is one of the cheapest reptiles to feed — and one of the easiest to under-budget. The animal itself is often the smallest part of the first-year cost. The enclosure, heating and lighting cost more, and a tortoise can live for decades, so the real question is not just “what does it cost to buy one?” but “what does it cost to keep one properly for 20, 50, or 80 years?”
The honest short answer: a small species kept indoors can cost a few hundred dollars to set up and a modest amount each month to run. A sulcata, which grows to the size of a small dog, costs far more — mostly in space, food, and a much bigger enclosure as it grows.
Prices below are broad planning ranges for typical US retail, not Underground Reptile Shop prices — they vary a lot by species, size, brand, and where you buy. Check current listings before you buy, and budget the setup before the animal.
The short version: what you will pay for
| Cost | When | Typical range |
|---|---|---|
| The tortoise | Once | Varies hugely by species and age — small species are usually the cheapest, sulcatas and rare species cost more |
| Enclosure / tortoise table | Once, then upgrades as it grows | $150–$550+ depending on size |
| Heating, UVB lighting and thermostat | Once, plus bulb/tube replacements | $80–$200 to set up |
| Substrate, hides, decor and dishes | Once, plus top-ups | $40–$100 to start |
| Food and supplements | Every month | $15–$40 a month for a small tortoise; more for a large one |
| Electricity | Every month | A few dollars a month for one setup |
| Vet fund | As needed | Set aside something every month — one vet visit can cost more than a month of food |
1. The tortoise itself
This is the part everyone asks about first, and the part that varies most. Price depends on species, age, and whether the animal is captive-bred.
- Small species (Russian, Hermann’s, Greek): usually the most affordable tortoises to buy, and the cheapest to house.
- Medium species (red-footed, yellow-footed, leopard): cost more, and need a larger, more humid setup.
- Sulcata (African spurred): often cheap as a hatchling, and that is the trap — it grows fast, gets very large, and ends up the most expensive tortoise to keep. Never buy a sulcata on the hatchling price alone.
Buy captive-bred from a reputable seller, and check the live arrival and health guarantee before you order. A cheap tortoise with no guarantee and no health history is not a bargain if it arrives sick. Check the tortoises currently available in the shop and read the live animal policy page before deciding.
2. Setup costs (one-off): the enclosure
This is the biggest one-off cost, and the one beginners most often get wrong by buying too small.
- A tortoise table is better than a glass tank for most species. Tortoises need floor space and airflow, not height. A 48×24 in table suits a small adult tortoise; a sulcata will outgrow any indoor table and need an outdoor pen.
- Buy for the adult, not the hatchling. A hatchling setup you replace within a year costs more in total than one right-sized setup bought once. See sizes and table options on our Enclosure & Habitats page.
- Outdoor space is not free. If you keep a larger species outside, budget for secure fencing, a heated shelter for cold nights, and protection from predators.
Typical planning range for a first indoor setup for a small species: roughly $150–$550 for the table or enclosure alone, before heating and lighting.
3. Setup costs (one-off): heating and lighting
Tortoises need a warm basking spot, a cooler side to retreat to, and proper UVB light to make vitamin D3 and absorb calcium. Without UVB, they can develop metabolic bone disease — a serious, preventable condition.
- Basking heat: a heat lamp or ceramic heat emitter in a suitable fixture, creating a basking spot of around 95–100°F (35–38°C) for most species, with a cool side around 70–80°F (21–27°C).
- Thermostat: every heat source needs one. An unregulated heat source can overheat and burn your tortoise. A dimming or proportional thermostat is ideal for basking lamps.
- UVB: a reptile-specific UVB tube, not a household bulb, replaced on the manufacturer’s schedule — UVB output fades long before the tube stops glowing.
- Thermometer and hygrometer: measure both ends of the enclosure with digital probes; do not guess.
Compare thermostat, UVB tube, fixture, and heat-source types on our Heating & Lighting page. Typical planning range for heating, lighting and controls: roughly $80–$200 to set up, plus a replacement UVB tube every 6–12 months.
4. Setup costs (one-off): substrate, hides and decor
- Substrate: match it to the species — humidity-holding mixes for tropical species, drier diggable mixes for desert species. Avoid fine, dusty sands for young tortoises. See the options on our Substrate & Decor page.
- Hides: at least one on the warm side and one on the cool side, plus a humid hide to aid shedding.
- Dishes: a heavy, tip-resistant water dish shallow enough to soak in safely, and a flat feeding surface to keep food off the substrate.
- Decor: cork bark, rocks and plants for cover and enrichment — a bare table stresses a tortoise.
Typical planning range to furnish a first setup: roughly $40–$100.
5. Monthly costs: food, supplements and upkeep
This is the good news: a small tortoise is cheap to feed.
- Food: mostly leafy greens, weeds and grasses for grazing species, plus a prepared tortoise diet. Expect roughly $15–$40 a month for a small tortoise. A large sulcata eats far more and costs far more to feed.
- Supplements: calcium (with or without D3, depending on your UVB setup) and a multivitamin, dusted on food on a schedule. See the options on our Food & Supplements page.
- Substrate top-ups and cleaning: replace soiled substrate regularly, and use a reptile-safe cleaner — see our Accessories page for thermometers, dishes, scales and cleaners.
- Electricity: one basking lamp and UVB tube cost a few dollars a month to run.
- Vet fund: tortoises hide illness well, so a yearly check-up and a small monthly vet fund are worth budgeting. One sick-tortoise vet visit can cost more than several months of food.
For a small species, a realistic monthly running total is roughly $20–$50, once the setup is bought. For a sulcata, expect several times that as it grows.
6. Costs by species — the comparison that matters
| Species | Adult size | Setup cost | Monthly cost | Lifespan |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Russian / Hermann’s | 6–10 in | Lower — a tortoise table works for an adult | Lower | 50+ years |
| Red-footed | 10–14 in | Medium — larger, humid setup | Medium | 50+ years |
| Leopard | 10–18 in | Medium to high — needs space | Medium | 50–100 years |
| Sulcata | 24–30+ in, 80–100+ lb | High — outgrows indoor tables, needs an outdoor pen with heated shelter | High — eats a lot | 70–100+ years |
The pattern is simple: the bigger the adult, the bigger the lifetime bill. A sulcata’s cheap hatchling price is the most misleading number in tortoise keeping.
Beginner mistakes that cost money
- Buying the tortoise before the setup. Set the enclosure up first, switch it on, and let temperatures stabilise for at least 24 hours. A tortoise arriving to a cold, untested table is a vet bill waiting to happen.
- Buying a small enclosure twice. A cheap starter table you replace within a year costs more than buying the right size once.
- Skipping the thermostat or the UVB. Both are non-negotiable, and both are cheaper than treating metabolic bone disease or a burn.
- Forgetting the decades. A tortoise is a multi-decade commitment. Budget for the adult it will become, not just the hatchling you are buying.
- No vet fund. Tortoises are hardy until they are not — and then they need a reptile vet, fast.
If you are choosing a first tortoise, our Bearded Dragon Setup Checklist shows the same “setup first” approach for another popular beginner reptile, and our Leopard Gecko Care Guide covers a smaller, cheaper first reptile if a tortoise’s lifetime cost feels too big.
FAQ
What is the cheapest tortoise to keep? Usually a small species such as a Russian or Hermann’s tortoise: a tortoise table suits an adult, and it eats modest amounts. The animal, the setup, and the monthly food are all at the lower end.
How much does a tortoise cost per month? For a small species, roughly $20–$50 a month for food, supplements, substrate top-ups and electricity once the setup is bought. Larger species cost more, mostly in food and space.
How much is a tortoise setup in total? For a small species, plan on a few hundred dollars for the table, heating, UVB, thermostat, substrate, hides and dishes — often several times the price of the tortoise itself. For a sulcata, plan on far more, and on an outdoor pen as it grows.
Do tortoises need UVB light? Yes. They need UVB to make vitamin D3 and absorb calcium. A UVB tube is part of the setup cost, not an optional extra, and it needs replacing on schedule.
Can I keep a tortoise outside to save money? For larger species in a warm climate, an outdoor pen is the right long-term home — but it still needs secure fencing, a heated shelter, and predator protection, so it is not free. Small species and cold climates need a proper indoor setup.
How long do tortoises live? Most pet species live 50 years or more, and sulcatas can live 70–100+ years. Budget as if you are taking on a lifelong commitment, because you are.
Planning ranges in this guide are broad US retail estimates to help you budget — they are not Underground Reptile Shop prices. Check the live shop for current animal and supply prices before you buy.